CelticsStrong
Other Discussions => Off Topic => Topic started by: Eja117 on August 17, 2014, 11:12:58 AM
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I am currently trying to remove a medium sized pine stump in my free time. I think I'm on week 3 or 4. This is probably the single hardest physical thing I have ever done. I have virtually no tools. Shovel, garden hose, and pick axe are pretty much doing it all.
Pine trees and shallow without many roots the internet said. Maybe only a few hours the internet said.
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Should only take a few hours with the right technique.
Step 1: you will need a few more tools:
go buy a 4' pinch point point crowbar. Pinch point is important as it will not bend under pressure. Get at the depot for $20-30.
Gather a few larger rocks and a 4x4 or piece of fire wood. The rocks will be used in step 4, the 4x4 is a fulcrum for your new pry bar.
Step 2: expose horizontal spread roots so you can attack with your pick ax.
Step3: cut biggest roots all the way around.
Step 4: use fulcrum and pry bar to lift trunk enough to reveal other roots., jam a rock under to hold in place. Cut roots.
Step 5: repeat 4 until stump is free. Pop out with pry bar.
Good luck and have fun.
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I'm almost done. I expect to soon pull it out with my hands
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With your bare hands! Argh! VICTORY!
Feels good don't it?
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I've been looking for that Independence Day clip of Will Smith after he tricked the alien into crashing and he was like "Yeeeahhhh. That's right! That's right! Look at you all shaboom banged up. Wait till I get another plane and I'm gonna light up all your brothers right beside you!" and then I punch him in the face and knock him out and smoke a stogie and say "Welcome to Earth"
but I can't find the clip. I found a low quality one, but that's it
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Funny.
Personally I go with the Braveheart primal scream "freedom" thing.
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It's done. It's hard to act like I've been there before because I haven't
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Good thread. I love just hang around house and yard, doing various fixes jobs. The past few years I have increasingly paid people to do the backbreaking jobs like removing tree stumps, but there is still plenty to do for a 56-year old. My wife hates when I get up on a ladder, but I still do that to some extent.
I am just about to buy a table saw and drill press for my workshop garage. Really psyched to finally have some real power tools!
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My favorite chore is mowing the lawn by a long shot only because it reaffirms that I have a lawn
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Good thread. I love just hang around house and yard, doing various fixes jobs. The past few years I have increasingly paid people to do the backbreaking jobs like removing tree stumps, but there is still plenty to do for a 56-year old. My wife hates when I get up on a ladder, but I still do that to some extent.
I am just about to buy a table saw and drill press for my workshop garage. Really psyched to finally have some real power tools!
It's not a real workshop without a table saw!!
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I am currently trying to remove a medium sized pine stump in my free time. I think I'm on week 3 or 4. This is probably the single hardest physical thing I have ever done. I have virtually no tools. Shovel, garden hose, and pick axe are pretty much doing it all.
Pine trees and shallow without many roots the internet said. Maybe only a few hours the internet said.
1) Fine neighbor with truck, pull chain, and proper hooks.
2) Befrieind said neighbor.
3) Laugh gleefully as neighbor pulls up tree, roots, and everything in 20 seconds.
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There is a reason why the country pushes home ownership. There is so much of the economy that is driven by home ownership. It is very important to have ideas about all you need to keep up maintenance of your house and yard otherwise you will be fleeced by various professional providers. Thank God for the internet we now have a tool for knowing when we are being fleeced.
My HVAC system just went out. It was blowing air but was not cool air. There was an intermittent humming sound coming from the condenser. The first guys out said the compressor was shot, and wanted about $3,000.00 to put in a new one otherwise I would have to buy a new unit, current unit is about 10 years old. They charges $100.00 to come out by the way.
Second guy out, said the system just needs a new capacitor and hard start unit with a thorough cleaning, system tune-up, and new filter. He did this and the system is working fine.
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I am currently trying to remove a medium sized pine stump in my free time. I think I'm on week 3 or 4. This is probably the single hardest physical thing I have ever done. I have virtually no tools. Shovel, garden hose, and pick axe are pretty much doing it all.
Pine trees and shallow without many roots the internet said. Maybe only a few hours the internet said.
1) Fine neighbor with truck, pull chain, and proper hooks.
2) Befrieind said neighbor.
3) Laugh gleefully as neighbor pulls up tree, roots, and everything in 20 seconds.
Had I known how hard this would be I would have thought harder about this. I was also nervous about destroying a neighbor's truck. I saw videos of huge machines dealing with stumps like this one....and...anyway. I did what I did.
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I am currently trying to remove a medium sized pine stump in my free time. I think I'm on week 3 or 4. This is probably the single hardest physical thing I have ever done. I have virtually no tools. Shovel, garden hose, and pick axe are pretty much doing it all.
Pine trees and shallow without many roots the internet said. Maybe only a few hours the internet said.
1) Fine neighbor with truck, pull chain, and proper hooks.
2) Befrieind said neighbor.
3) Laugh gleefully as neighbor pulls up tree, roots, and everything in 20 seconds.
Had I known how hard this would be I would have thought harder about this. I was also nervous about destroying a neighbor's truck. I saw videos of huge machines dealing with stumps like this one....and...anyway. I did what I did.
Depending on where the tree is, this might work:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7bTpmFGiuZ0
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I am currently trying to remove a medium sized pine stump in my free time. I think I'm on week 3 or 4. This is probably the single hardest physical thing I have ever done. I have virtually no tools. Shovel, garden hose, and pick axe are pretty much doing it all.
Pine trees and shallow without many roots the internet said. Maybe only a few hours the internet said.
1) Fine neighbor with truck, pull chain, and proper hooks.
2) Befrieind said neighbor.
3) Laugh gleefully as neighbor pulls up tree, roots, and everything in 20 seconds.
Alternate 3:
Cry pitifully as you reimburse said neighbor for new transmission.
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I was also pretty concerned about something like this...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tw_vcM7bynA
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It's pretty funny the way they yell "stop stop stop" at the end
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I am currently trying to remove a medium sized pine stump in my free time. I think I'm on week 3 or 4. This is probably the single hardest physical thing I have ever done. I have virtually no tools. Shovel, garden hose, and pick axe are pretty much doing it all.
Pine trees and shallow without many roots the internet said. Maybe only a few hours the internet said.
1) Fine neighbor with truck, pull chain, and proper hooks.
2) Befrieind said neighbor.
3) Laugh gleefully as neighbor pulls up tree, roots, and everything in 20 seconds.
Alternate 3:
Cry pitifully as you reimburse said neighbor for new transmission.
Yeah, reality isn't always as pretty and perfect as commercials lead us to believe.
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My own experience with this is very similar, maybe not as bad. Young maple tree growing amidst some bushes, started digging/chopping, and realized, "good lord, this is gonna be terrible"
Neighbor just pulled up in his truck, hitched em up, said "stand back" and tore it out. It was awesome.
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I was also pretty concerned about something like this...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tw_vcM7bynA
Gotta love how he put it in reverse, not neutral, and then didn't even give it any gas.
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My own experience with this is very similar, maybe not as bad. Young maple tree growing amidst some bushes, started digging/chopping, and realized, "good lord, this is gonna be terrible"
Neighbor just pulled up in his truck, hitched em up, said "stand back" and tore it out. It was awesome.
Another horrid aspect of this was when I started there were tons of spindly maple roots crossing my big one so I had to cut them and it was just a whole nother thing. And there were tons of rocks. The roots had grown around a bunch of them and I that point I ruled out chainsaw because I didn't want stuff flying at my face or destroying chains.
Youtube videos are only so good cause dudes show off. They don't usually post the horribly bad idea videos....not usually. The car is an exception
I make tons of my decisions based on imagining a worst case scenario and then seeing my name in paper with every one of my townsfolk saying "He did what? Why did he do that?"
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So this brings me to the new and interesting problem that I'm glad the wife said something about or things could be way worse. I threw a lot of the dirt into the dirt road to reinforce it until she said "you're gonna need to fill the whole". Upon which I kept a lot of the dirt nearby. I have filled it about 3 quarters back, which isn't too bad considering the volume of the stump itself and when I get soil and the actual tree I think it will work out. I'm thinking of maybe putting some grass clippings there. Not sure
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I works so hard at home ...and little woman crack d whip ..it's all a body can do to keep up
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Should only take a few hours with the right technique.
Step 1: you will need a few more tools:
go buy a 4' pinch point point crowbar. Pinch point is important as it will not bend under pressure. Get at the depot for $20-30.
Gather a few larger rocks and a 4x4 or piece of fire wood. The rocks will be used in step 4, the 4x4 is a fulcrum for your new pry bar.
Step 2: expose horizontal spread roots so you can attack with your pick ax.
Step3: cut biggest roots all the way around.
Step 4: use fulcrum and pry bar to lift trunk enough to reveal other roots., jam a rock under to hold in place. Cut roots.
Step 5: repeat 4 until stump is free. Pop out with pry bar.
Good luck and have fun.
better yet...
step 1, call a professional stump remover.
step 2, watch them do the job in 1/2 hour while you drink a beer.
step 3, give me a tommy point. ;D
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Should only take a few hours with the right technique.
Step 1: you will need a few more tools:
go buy a 4' pinch point point crowbar. Pinch point is important as it will not bend under pressure. Get at the depot for $20-30.
Gather a few larger rocks and a 4x4 or piece of fire wood. The rocks will be used in step 4, the 4x4 is a fulcrum for your new pry bar.
Step 2: expose horizontal spread roots so you can attack with your pick ax.
Step3: cut biggest roots all the way around.
Step 4: use fulcrum and pry bar to lift trunk enough to reveal other roots., jam a rock under to hold in place. Cut roots.
Step 5: repeat 4 until stump is free. Pop out with pry bar.
Good luck and have fun.
better yet...
step 1, call a professional stump remover.
step 2, watch them do the job in 1/2 hour while you drink a beer.
step 3, give me a tommy point. ;D
Didn't feel like being charged to have Brazillians I don't know drive up to my house and charge me to do what I could do in my free time.
I pay people to do things I can't do....like plumbing.
I don't pay them to do things I can do like mow the lawn or make a brick walk or clean my house.
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Should only take a few hours with the right technique.
Step 1: you will need a few more tools:
go buy a 4' pinch point point crowbar. Pinch point is important as it will not bend under pressure. Get at the depot for $20-30.
Gather a few larger rocks and a 4x4 or piece of fire wood. The rocks will be used in step 4, the 4x4 is a fulcrum for your new pry bar.
Step 2: expose horizontal spread roots so you can attack with your pick ax.
Step3: cut biggest roots all the way around.
Step 4: use fulcrum and pry bar to lift trunk enough to reveal other roots., jam a rock under to hold in place. Cut roots.
Step 5: repeat 4 until stump is free. Pop out with pry bar.
Good luck and have fun.
better yet...
step 1, call a professional stump remover.
step 2, watch them do the job in 1/2 hour while you drink a beer.
step 3, give me a tommy point. ;D
Didn't feel like being charged to have Brazillians I don't know drive up to my house and charge me to do what I could do in my free time.
I pay people to do things I can't do....like plumbing.
I don't pay them to do things I can do like mow the lawn or make a brick walk or clean my house.
I am a fix-it idiot. I have no building knowledge or skills at all, never mind plumbing or electrical. I can change a light bulb, mow the lawn, rake the leaves, trim hedges, seed/fertilize, shovel the snow, vacuum, sweep, fold laundry, and put dishes in the dishwasher. Everything else either my wife does (she's much more handy than me) or we call someone. That said, I have removed stumps -- some hard, some relatively easy.
I'm with you about paying for something I am able to do -- but unlike you, I wouldn't even attempt a brick walk.
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Should only take a few hours with the right technique.
Step 1: you will need a few more tools:
go buy a 4' pinch point point crowbar. Pinch point is important as it will not bend under pressure. Get at the depot for $20-30.
Gather a few larger rocks and a 4x4 or piece of fire wood. The rocks will be used in step 4, the 4x4 is a fulcrum for your new pry bar.
Step 2: expose horizontal spread roots so you can attack with your pick ax.
Step3: cut biggest roots all the way around.
Step 4: use fulcrum and pry bar to lift trunk enough to reveal other roots., jam a rock under to hold in place. Cut roots.
Step 5: repeat 4 until stump is free. Pop out with pry bar.
Good luck and have fun.
better yet...
step 1, call a professional stump remover.
step 2, watch them do the job in 1/2 hour while you drink a beer.
step 3, give me a tommy point. ;D
Didn't feel like being charged to have Brazillians I don't know drive up to my house and charge me to do what I could do in my free time.
I pay people to do things I can't do....like plumbing.
I don't pay them to do things I can do like mow the lawn or make a brick walk or clean my house.
I am a fix-it idiot. I have no building knowledge or skills at all, never mind plumbing or electrical. I can change a light bulb, mow the lawn, rake the leaves, trim hedges, seed/fertilize, shovel the snow, vacuum, sweep, fold laundry, and put dishes in the dishwasher. Everything else either my wife does (she's much more handy than me) or we call someone. That said, I have removed stumps -- some hard, some relatively easy.
I'm with you about paying for something I am able to do -- but unlike you, I wouldn't even attempt a brick walk.
It's not as hard as you might think. In our first house, I put in a front walk using some large square flagstones, 24" per side. Brick does require more precision though.
I am pretty much aligned with you on that household responsibility list though I am also fairly mechanically adept and can build and repair household items.
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Should only take a few hours with the right technique.
Step 1: you will need a few more tools:
go buy a 4' pinch point point crowbar. Pinch point is important as it will not bend under pressure. Get at the depot for $20-30.
Gather a few larger rocks and a 4x4 or piece of fire wood. The rocks will be used in step 4, the 4x4 is a fulcrum for your new pry bar.
Step 2: expose horizontal spread roots so you can attack with your pick ax.
Step3: cut biggest roots all the way around.
Step 4: use fulcrum and pry bar to lift trunk enough to reveal other roots., jam a rock under to hold in place. Cut roots.
Step 5: repeat 4 until stump is free. Pop out with pry bar.
Good luck and have fun.
better yet...
step 1, call a professional stump remover.
step 2, watch them do the job in 1/2 hour while you drink a beer.
step 3, give me a tommy point. ;D
Didn't feel like being charged to have Brazillians I don't know drive up to my house and charge me to do what I could do in my free time.
I pay people to do things I can't do....like plumbing.
I don't pay them to do things I can do like mow the lawn or make a brick walk or clean my house.
I am a fix-it idiot. I have no building knowledge or skills at all, never mind plumbing or electrical. I can change a light bulb, mow the lawn, rake the leaves, trim hedges, seed/fertilize, shovel the snow, vacuum, sweep, fold laundry, and put dishes in the dishwasher. Everything else either my wife does (she's much more handy than me) or we call someone. That said, I have removed stumps -- some hard, some relatively easy.
I'm with you about paying for something I am able to do -- but unlike you, I wouldn't even attempt a brick walk.
It's not as hard as you might think. In our first house, I put in a front walk using some large square flagstones, 24" per side. Brick does require more precision though.
I am pretty much aligned with you on that household responsibility list though I am also fairly mechanically adept and can build and repair household items.
Technically it was a cobble stone walk and the wife and I did it together. It took a solid month or two.
I admit without the internet it would be harder to do this stuff. Also it helps that my wife grew up poor. Being poor in money can sometimes make you richer in other ways.
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Good thread. I love just hang around house and yard, doing various fixes jobs. The past few years I have increasingly paid people to do the backbreaking jobs like removing tree stumps, but there is still plenty to do for a 56-year old. My wife hates when I get up on a ladder, but I still do that to some extent.
I am just about to buy a table saw and drill press for my workshop garage. Really psyched to finally have some real power tools!
Unless you've got something specific in mind for needing the drill press, buy yourself a decent chop saw with the money instead. I've managed to accumulate a fair number of hand and power tools in the past 10-15 years, and the power tool that gets used the most is the chop saw. I know, you can make those cuts with a circ saw, but chop saw is so simple, so easy and quick... I use my table saw a fair amount, but my chop saw pretty much every weekend and I've never really NEEDED a drill press.
Good cordless drill
Chop saw
Table saw
That'd be my recommendations for your first three power tool investments.
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Chop saw
smh
get a butter knife
Everyman should have one in tool boxs
flat head to Phillip
great for splicing wire
and when ya done
Great for mayo, jelly and butter
sippin
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Ok- here's my dilemma... What is an easy and eco/puppy-friendly way to remove crab grass that always seems to pop up in August in New England?
I've tried boiling water- it works but still doesn't save time. I won't use chemicals for various reasons, and last year I re-seeded the majority of the lawn in another area and am just loathe to pull all the crabgrass by hand to re-seed... Are there any other secret weapons in the battle royale against crabgrass?
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Have any of you ever bought and planted a European White Birch? Preferably a small one. How did that go?
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Any of you ever have carpenter bees? How did that go?
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I had an attack of carpenter bees in multiple locations one spring. Bought a big plastic bottle of boric acid with a long thin tip at Tractor Supply. It is safe, cheap and effective. Puffed it into the bee holes. Two treatments a couple of days apart did the job. I caulked and painted the holes.
Done
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STKz148FY7Y
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I made a small mistake. Way back in the day when I put up curtains in the living room I used the small dry wall anchors provided with the small screws. That was a horrible mistake. I upgraded to larger screws and anchors. That helped. Then I upgraded to the things that spread out in the wall and that almost did the job and was sufficient in other places in the house. Now I have upgraded to the large self drilling dry wall anchors. The problem was I used a screw too big and had to pull it out which left a hole bigger than I'd like and the screw there has very little to grab on to. The rest of the job came out fine. I just want it to look ok and have the screw not sag. I don't think I need it to really support the curtain.
So....not sure what to do. Not sure spakle will really hold a screw to the wall.
Searching internet
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I made a small mistake. Way back in the day when I put up curtains in the living room I used the small dry wall anchors provided with the small screws. That was a horrible mistake. I upgraded to larger screws and anchors. That helped. Then I upgraded to the things that spread out in the wall and that almost did the job and was sufficient in other places in the house. Now I have upgraded to the large self drilling dry wall anchors. The problem was I used a screw too big and had to pull it out which left a hole bigger than I'd like and the screw there has very little to grab on to. The rest of the job came out fine. I just want it to look ok and have the screw not sag. I don't think I need it to really support the curtain.
So....not sure what to do. Not sure spakle will really hold a screw to the wall.
Searching internet
Is it Sheetrock or plaster?
If it's old plaster fill it with Durabond joint compound (only stuff that will hold a screw.) if it's Sheetrock use seam tape or a patch and skim coat.
Then use one of these...
http://m.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-1-4-in-x-2-1-2-in-Toggle-Straps-with-Screws-6-Pack-376260/202982713
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Sheet rock I think.
I was considering going with joint compound and then just using another drywall anchor. I feel like i just need it to fit
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Sheet rock I think.
I was considering going with joint compound and then just using another drywall anchor. I feel like i just need it to fit
mthe anchors in the link above are bomber
Can get the to hold up to 75 lbs/anchor
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I don't think I've done a good job of explaining this. The rod is up and in the wall at both ends. I definitely do not want to take it down.
So I'm working in a very small area. I was under the impression plaster and dry wall were somewhat interchangeable terms. I think it's dry wall. There is a hole in a manner of speaking. The amount of area of dry wall where a dry wall anchor would be is no missing. I think I need to fill it. I don't see how tape could help that.
I suppose I will try the other thing and then those anchors you showed.
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So you know that ring in the toilet that happens? Have any of you ever successfully removed it or even seriously reduced it? Without buying a new toilet? After having had said ring for like 2 or 3 years?
We tried doing some stuff from youtube and failed pretty badly
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Wife bought new dishwasher. Asked a plumber I trusted how much to install. He said 350 and it was a 3ish hour job. Ran counter to our research.
Trying to do it ourselves. Very unhappy the new one didn't come with a supply line hose.
Spent like 8 hours on this. Not going well.
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I think I'm on week 3 or 4.
This plus not having any real tools to do it, why didn't you just hire someone? Not worth 3-4 weeks minimum of my life especially without the correct tools.
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I think I'm on week 3 or 4.
This plus not having any real tools to do it, why didn't you just hire someone? Not worth 3-4 weeks minimum of my life especially without the correct tools.
Wait a second. I didn't exactly do it around the clock. I didn't know it would take so long when I started.
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Dishwasher is harder than it looks.
I recommend buying from Sears and paying their install fee. You are clearly past that though.
The not coming with a hose bit is common. Make sure you get a steel wrapped hose.
Also, it's really important that it be in there with the proper leveling or it won't drain properly.
Best tip I got when I did mine, "built in" style dishwashers come with plastic wheels on the back to make it easy to roll.
Take those off. They aren't supposed to be on when it's installed. I'd never have figured that out on my own, and getting it level was impossible with those on since it was too tall in the back.
Buzz
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I'm so sick of yard work at this point in my life I can't stand it! I grew up on a farm and have been a homeowner since I was 23 (44 now). I have plenty of time to do it and have tools to do almost everything I need to do. But I don't want to anymore!!!
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Dishwasher is harder than it looks.
I recommend buying from Sears and paying their install fee. You are clearly past that though.
The not coming with a hose bit is common. Make sure you get a steel wrapped hose.
Also, it's really important that it be in there with the proper leveling or it won't drain properly.
Best tip I got when I did mine, "built in" style dishwashers come with plastic wheels on the back to make it easy to roll.
Take those off. They aren't supposed to be on when it's installed. I'd never have figured that out on my own, and getting it level was impossible with those on since it was too tall in the back.
Buzz
According to the level we're level.
The problem is the supply line hose we had didn't fit on the elbow from the machine. Not only did it not fit, but I think the threads turned out backwards. So the hardware store like rigged up this connector/adapter thing that did fit. Problem was it leaked a tiny bit. So I used tape on the parts and tightened it. Unfortunately I tightened it so much I actually bent the connector. I had no idea I could do that. So I now want to try to get a new hose or failing that a new connector that I will do all over again with tape and not tighten it so [dang] hard. I am also freaking out that when I connected the electric wires nothing happened after we threw the breaker back on. I am not in a good place with all this.
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Have you tried sacrificing a chicken or calf to the kitchen gods in hopes of gaining their grace? It always works for me.
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Ugh... I am repointing/remortaring my 200 year-old stone foundation.
Basically you dig out the loose mortar form between the old stones, remove all the dust with a vacuum or brush, then mix some fresh mortar and stuff it deep into the crevices.
It is slow, miserable work, and it takes a lot longer than it sounds.
And God, I hate wearing a dust mask.
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I'm so sick of yard work at this point in my life I can't stand it! I grew up on a farm and have been a homeowner since I was 23 (44 now). I have plenty of time to do it and have tools to do almost everything I need to do. But I don't want to anymore!!!
Funny how perspectives can be so different. I love doing yard work! I'm 58 and yard work is one of my favorite pastimes, as well as being pretty good exercise. I do use a lawn management company that does the fertilizing, grub treatment, etc., but I mow my own lawn and do a lot of the trimming and planting.
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Have you tried sacrificing a chicken or calf to the kitchen gods in hopes of gaining their grace? It always works for me.
I'm a 16th Jew so my God won't allow me to pray to other heathen gods. However, I suppose I could try praying to my own.
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Dishwasher is harder than it looks.
I recommend buying from Sears and paying their install fee. You are clearly past that though.
The not coming with a hose bit is common. Make sure you get a steel wrapped hose.
Also, it's really important that it be in there with the proper leveling or it won't drain properly.
Best tip I got when I did mine, "built in" style dishwashers come with plastic wheels on the back to make it easy to roll.
Take those off. They aren't supposed to be on when it's installed. I'd never have figured that out on my own, and getting it level was impossible with those on since it was too tall in the back.
Buzz
According to the level we're level.
The problem is the supply line hose we had didn't fit on the elbow from the machine. Not only did it not fit, but I think the threads turned out backwards. So the hardware store like rigged up this connector/adapter thing that did fit. Problem was it leaked a tiny bit. So I used tape on the parts and tightened it. Unfortunately I tightened it so much I actually bent the connector. I had no idea I could do that. So I now want to try to get a new hose or failing that a new connector that I will do all over again with tape and not tighten it so [dang] hard. I am also freaking out that when I connected the electric wires nothing happened after we threw the breaker back on. I am not in a good place with all this.
I installed mine yesterday, was pretty easy. I did buy a universal hose from Home Depot that was 9 feet (only needed 5 foot one) so that I Can easily move the dishwasher around if I had done something wrong. Did a couple practice loads last night and seems to work great. GOt the dishwasher off of the side of the road as it was better then the one I had.
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I think I basically need this...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-1-2-in-FIP-x-3-8-in-Compression-x-60-in-Braided-Polymer-Dishwasher-Connector-with-3-8-in-Compression-Elbow-B8-60DW6-P/205214604
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I'm so sick of yard work at this point in my life I can't stand it! I grew up on a farm and have been a homeowner since I was 23 (44 now). I have plenty of time to do it and have tools to do almost everything I need to do. But I don't want to anymore!!!
Funny how perspectives can be so different. I love doing yard work! I'm 58 and yard work is one of my favorite pastimes, as well as being pretty good exercise. I do use a lawn management company that does the fertilizing, grub treatment, etc., but I mow my own lawn and do a lot of the trimming and planting.
I have a riding mower that is 15 years old, still decent, takes me over 2 hours just to do the riding part. :-\
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Got the dishwasher done. A hose with a packet of adapters did the trick. It was downhill from there
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so I am looking to install glass doors for my showers...do you guys recommend doing it myself or hire a contractor?
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so I am looking to install glass doors for my showers...do you guys recommend doing it myself or hire a contractor?
Some considerations before you decide to take it on:
What kind of material are the walls? If you must drill through tile you will need the right tools and a light touch to avoid cracking them.
Is the opening for the doors square and plumb? If not, you will need to shim the frame for the doors to operate properly. Not necessarily a show stopper, but it does require a little extra finesse. Especially if the opening is way off.
In any event, make sure that every screw and every joint is properly sealed to prevent water infiltration and damage over time.
If your comfort level is there, go for it. Otherwise, take a pass.
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Have you tried sacrificing a chicken or calf to the kitchen gods in hopes of gaining their grace? It always works for me.
I've sacrificed numerous flanks and drumsticks but I'm still not brave enough to do my own kitchen.
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I am thrilled this forum topic exists... on CB no less.
Here's my question, about lawns.
I've been a homeowner for about a year and have done nothing to my lawn other than mow it and water it. It looks terrible in many places, dry and weed infested.
Is it necessary to hire a lawn company to fertilize, re-seed, de-weed, etc? It's expensive for a big property, and I've also heard that some companies will use high nitrogen fertilizers that are like crack for your lawn, ie they make it spruce right back up but it's not that healthy underneath.
A landscaper we talked to recently said he wants to "dethatch" the lawn, that is tear it up and re-seed it. Then he said I should just buy a spreader and some low-nitrogen fertilizer and just fertilize 3-4 times per year. I'm not sold on the need to "dethatch" (others say this is counterproductive, you just need to "aerate".
Anyway, any and all advice welcome.
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so I am looking to install glass doors for my showers...do you guys recommend doing it myself or hire a contractor?
Some considerations before you decide to take it on:
What kind of material are the walls? If you must drill through tile you will need the right tools and a light touch to avoid cracking them.
Is the opening for the doors square and plumb? If not, you will need to shim the frame for the doors to operate properly. Not necessarily a show stopper, but it does require a little extra finesse. Especially if the opening is way off.
In any event, make sure that every screw and every joint is properly sealed to prevent water infiltration and damage over time.
If your comfort level is there, go for it. Otherwise, take a pass.
got it so i think at this point it's safer to get a contractor
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I am thrilled this forum topic exists... on CB no less.
Here's my question, about lawns.
I've been a homeowner for about a year and have done nothing to my lawn other than mow it and water it. It looks terrible in many places, dry and weed infested.
Is it necessary to hire a lawn company to fertilize, re-seed, de-weed, etc? It's expensive for a big property, and I've also heard that some companies will use high nitrogen fertilizers that are like crack for your lawn, ie they make it spruce right back up but it's not that healthy underneath.
A landscaper we talked to recently said he wants to "dethatch" the lawn, that is tear it up and re-seed it. Then he said I should just buy a spreader and some low-nitrogen fertilizer and just fertilize 3-4 times per year. I'm not sold on the need to "dethatch" (others say this is counterproductive, you just need to "aerate".
Anyway, any and all advice welcome.
A few years ago my front lawn had deteriorated very badly because we went through a drought and I had it very short and didn't water it. I spent a whole season trying to fix it myself with fertilizer, more seeds, etc. It didn't work and it was a huge waste time and small waste of money. I was told it was so bad I should have all the old stuff removed and I had the yard hydroseeded. It's been absolutely beautiful ever since. I now have a lawn service, and it's super convenient and they keep the lawn looking great. It's not all that expensive either- like $330 for them to come and greet the front yard and the back yard 5 times a year.
Also, the back yard wasn't looking so great but it was salvageable. I let the lawn company core aerate it one year and spread seeds the same visit. They brought that yard back to good standing too.
You can try it yourself, but it's a guarantee of success if you let a professional do it.
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given how ecologically evil the modern lawn is, perhaps you could decide to fill in bad spots with alternatives to grass. for example:
- ornamental grass (it can grow from 3' to 8', looks nice)
- flower boxes
- ground cover, many come with flowers, lots to choose from
- lawn ornaments/statues
these all are a LOT less work and a LOT easier on the ecosystem.
here are a few examples:
http://eartheasy.com/grow_lawn_alternatives.htm
http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/19141968/list/7-low-maintenance-lawn-alternativeshttps://www.planetnatural.com/organic-lawn-care-101/alternatives/
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given how ecologically evil the modern lawn is, perhaps you could decide to fill in bad spots with alternatives to grass. for example:
- ornamental grass (it can grow from 3' to 8', looks nice)
- flower boxes
- ground cover, many come with flowers, lots to choose from- lawn ornaments/statues
these all are a LOT less work and a LOT easier on the ecosystem.
here are a few examples:
http://eartheasy.com/grow_lawn_alternatives.htm
http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/19141968/list/7-low-maintenance-lawn-alternativeshttps://www.planetnatural.com/organic-lawn-care-101/alternatives/
I've had good luck covering areas with pachysandra and vinca (sp).
Also suggest mulching out an area (such as a tree grouping) with bark mulch, then make a border with small stones. You can then plant ornamentals in the mulch.
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given how ecologically evil the modern lawn is, perhaps you could decide to fill in bad spots with alternatives to grass. for example:
- ornamental grass (it can grow from 3' to 8', looks nice)
- flower boxes
- ground cover, many come with flowers, lots to choose from- lawn ornaments/statues
these all are a LOT less work and a LOT easier on the ecosystem.
here are a few examples:
http://eartheasy.com/grow_lawn_alternatives.htm
http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/19141968/list/7-low-maintenance-lawn-alternativeshttps://www.planetnatural.com/organic-lawn-care-101/alternatives/
I've had good luck covering areas with pachysandra and vinca (sp).
Also suggest mulching out an area (such as a tree grouping) with bark mulch, then make a border with small stones. You can then plant ornamentals in the mulch.
The downside of bark mulch and the like (e.g., crushed rock) is that it can easily get strewn around the yard, especially if you have little kids. In the 10 years I operated my own lawn-care business, I came to despise mulch and crushed rock. ;D
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With the drought this summer, my usually very nice lawn took some abuse. It's still mostly grassy but has spots of dead grass. My plan was just to take a garden rake, scrape the ground on the bare spots and pick up whatever dead grass comes up with the scraping. My plan was not to go so far as digging up and turning over the dirt in these areas. I was then going to apply my winter fertilizer.
I am thinking I may be too late to over-seed now but will do in the spring. Does this sound like an OK plan?
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75 low humidy .....all the neighbors gone left the island till next May .....time to do work. ....just little ol me here .......love it. Stuff grows year around , I swear a tree can grow five feet depending on the type of course.
I cleared out a load of tree and debris that surrounds my property and trimmed the overhang into my property that kills my grass. If I don't the topical storms will do heir own type of landscaping.
I cut a dump truck load .
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With the drought this summer, my usually very nice lawn took some abuse. It's still mostly grassy but has spots of dead grass. My plan was just to take a garden rake, scrape the ground on the bare spots and pick up whatever dead grass comes up with the scraping. My plan was not to go so far as digging up and turning over the dirt in these areas. I was then going to apply my winter fertilizer.
I am thinking I may be too late to over-seed now but will do in the spring. Does this sound like an OK plan?
My lawn issue is I think a skunk trying to eat grubs under it. Mixed feelings.
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With the drought this summer, my usually very nice lawn took some abuse. It's still mostly grassy but has spots of dead grass. My plan was just to take a garden rake, scrape the ground on the bare spots and pick up whatever dead grass comes up with the scraping. My plan was not to go so far as digging up and turning over the dirt in these areas. I was then going to apply my winter fertilizer.
I am thinking I may be too late to over-seed now but will do in the spring. Does this sound like an OK plan?
My lawn issue is I think a skunk trying to eat grubs under it. Mixed feelings.
I had a grub issue once about 25 years ago. I ended up spreading grub killer, digging up the entire lawn, reseeding. Once that was done, an annual grub-killer application kept them away.
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I've got more moss out there than I'd like
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With the drought this summer, my usually very nice lawn took some abuse. It's still mostly grassy but has spots of dead grass. My plan was just to take a garden rake, scrape the ground on the bare spots and pick up whatever dead grass comes up with the scraping. My plan was not to go so far as digging up and turning over the dirt in these areas. I was then going to apply my winter fertilizer.
I am thinking I may be too late to over-seed now but will do in the spring. Does this sound like an OK plan?
I did this exact thing with a few dead spots just a few days ago. I've been told this is the best time to do it. Weather is cool and rainy so less chance of the seeds drying out. Fewer birds to worry about too which is nice. There should be enough time for the roots to establish themselves before going dormant for the winter. The problem with spring is there are more weeds and in these bare spots the new grass will have to compete with them.
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So you know that ring in the toilet that happens? Have any of you ever successfully removed it or even seriously reduced it? Without buying a new toilet? After having had said ring for like 2 or 3 years?
We tried doing some stuff from youtube and failed pretty badly
I used to have that issue - I have a well with water that has a bit of iron in it. They sell tablets that you can put in the TANK of your toilet. They are essentially bleach tablets. They come in a few different scents. Don't get the "Iron Out" ones. Those don't work. Get the ones by Clorox that actually have bleach. Each table lasts about 2 months I think. Best $4.99 investment I've ever made. I got mine at Lowes - but I'm sure they have them at any grocery store, hardware store, etc. They take a bit of time to work depending on how deep the stain is (maybe a month or so). But next time you go to change the tablet, you will see the huge difference in your tank alone. And as you flush it will clean the toilet too.
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I am thrilled this forum topic exists... on CB no less.
Here's my question, about lawns.
I've been a homeowner for about a year and have done nothing to my lawn other than mow it and water it. It looks terrible in many places, dry and weed infested.
Is it necessary to hire a lawn company to fertilize, re-seed, de-weed, etc? It's expensive for a big property, and I've also heard that some companies will use high nitrogen fertilizers that are like crack for your lawn, ie they make it spruce right back up but it's not that healthy underneath.
A landscaper we talked to recently said he wants to "dethatch" the lawn, that is tear it up and re-seed it. Then he said I should just buy a spreader and some low-nitrogen fertilizer and just fertilize 3-4 times per year. I'm not sold on the need to "dethatch" (others say this is counterproductive, you just need to "aerate".
Anyway, any and all advice welcome.
I guess it depends on how much work you are willing to put in. I'm in a new house, where the previous owners tried to be 100% organic, and let everything grow wild. I grew up in a house of green lawn, so I had my work cut out for me to get things how I wanted.
If you can aerate your lawn, I hear that is the best thing. If not, dethatching will work well too. Dethatching essentially will dig up the dead grass that sits on top of the soil - so the rain, fertilizer, etc. can actually get to the grass and roots. Aerating does a bit of both, while leaving the plugs on top of the current grass helps naturally fertilize it too. But you only need to do this every 3 years or so.
This would be my advice though if you are willing to do it yourself. First, you need to understand to get your lawn looking great, it is going to take a lot of time - a couple years most likely. Second, commit to applying the proper fertilizers. I follow the "Scotts STEPS" guide, which makes things super easy. At the very beginning of spring, you put down fertilizer that has crab grass preventer in it. This will help tame and kill any existing crab grass you have or is trying to grow. About 8 weeks later, you give it the next round of fertilizer - this has stuff that will kill satan himself, otherwise known as dandilions. Another 8 weeks later they have a "heat control" which basically has some chemicals that try's to slow down the growth of your grass during peak summer so it doesn't require as much water. Then another 8 weeks later you can apply your winter fertilizer or really any of the others you have already applied based on how your lawn looks.
When mowing your lawn, I've always just used a mulching bladed mower. Makes it easier to manage since I don't have to bag the clippings, and the clippings actually put nutrients back into the lawn. Also, make sure you cut it shorter at the end of the season, and longer at the beginning and especially peak summer when it gets less water.
I don't know how bad your lawn looks - but trying to reseed an entire lawn from scratch can be very difficult. You'll likely end up with lots of weeds, uneven growth, etc. if not using hydroseed or something more professional than just casting seed and using a sprinkler.
If you have somewhat contained areas of weeds, you could always pull those up, throw down some new soil and plant new grass. Remember that wherever you have grass, weeds wont grow. And that grass will naturally try to "spread." So you just have to give it time, try to feed it and control the mayhem that you have, and help it along where you can.
I think most peoples lawns took a tough hit this year with the lack of water and rain - but it should come back looking better next spring. As far as hiring a professional - you could always have them come out, give you a quote with listing of everything they would be doing. Then take that list and quote, and do what they suggest on your own. The fertilizer is somewhat expensive depending on the size of your lawn, but it makes a world of difference I have seen.
Good luck and enjoy!
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given how ecologically evil the modern lawn is, perhaps you could decide to fill in bad spots with alternatives to grass. for example:
- ornamental grass (it can grow from 3' to 8', looks nice)
- flower boxes
- ground cover, many come with flowers, lots to choose from- lawn ornaments/statues
these all are a LOT less work and a LOT easier on the ecosystem.
here are a few examples:
http://eartheasy.com/grow_lawn_alternatives.htm
http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/19141968/list/7-low-maintenance-lawn-alternativeshttps://www.planetnatural.com/organic-lawn-care-101/alternatives/
I've had good luck covering areas with pachysandra and vinca (sp).
Also suggest mulching out an area (such as a tree grouping) with bark mulch, then make a border with small stones. You can then plant ornamentals in the mulch.
The downside of bark mulch and the like (e.g., crushed rock) is that it can easily get strewn around the yard, especially if you have little kids. In the 10 years I operated my own lawn-care business, I came to despise mulch and crushed rock. ;D
We raised one child in a yard with lots of mulched areas. Just need to make sure they don't fiddle with, or eat, the mulch bits. This does require careful supervision and more importantly, getting them involved with other outdoor activities.
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Thought I had the gosh darn curtain rods in there perfect. Then they just fall right out of the wall (after like a year). I now have to repair a small hole and find the [dang] stud that seems impossible to find.
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Thought I had the gosh darn curtain rods in there perfect. Then they just fall right out of the wall (after like a year). I now have to repair a small hole and find the [dang] stud that seems impossible to find.
I put up a shelf in my shed last weekend. I'm super proud of myself. It's straight and sturdy and everything.
Totally baffled with what to do with my yard that was dug up last spring for a new leeching pit / septic system. Crab grass looked ok in the summer, but now it's ugly out there.
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Thought I had the gosh darn curtain rods in there perfect. Then they just fall right out of the wall (after like a year). I now have to repair a small hole and find the [dang] stud that seems impossible to find.
Ok. So holes are reasonably well speckled. Now I need to sand it. Spackle again. Sand again. Paint.
THEEEEeeeennnn put up curtain rods. I'm not happy I can't find the stud.
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Thought I had the gosh darn curtain rods in there perfect. Then they just fall right out of the wall (after like a year). I now have to repair a small hole and find the [dang] stud that seems impossible to find.
Ok. So holes are reasonably well speckled. Now I need to sand it. Spackle again. Sand again. Paint.
THEEEEeeeennnn put up curtain rods. I'm not happy I can't find the stud.
First I hope you know that finding the stud is as easy as finding ANY stud. You may know that they are placed exactly 16" apart, so once you find one, you can deduce the location of the others with a measuring tape.
To find one, look for something else that is connected to a stud, Shelf, hook etc. Also, light switch and outlet boxes are typically attached to the side of a stud. Measure over 3/4" to find the stud center.
You can also tap lightly and listen. When the wall doesn't sound hollow, you found it. Or use a gadget. Search "stud finder" on Amazon.
But that's really not the issue. The studs may not align with where you need your screws and you may have to mount the rods in drywall. Don't use those plastic screw anchors. They will only support the lightest loads over time. Instead, you need a hollow wall fastener.
Here's a link to a common easy solution:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNFv65-QTPI
There are other types of fasteners that will do the job. Type "Hollow & Drywall Anchors" into the Home Depot search box to see some.
Since you were happy with the installation of the rod before it fell, you may want to re-use the holes you just repaired...using better hardware, of course. And doing the spackle and re-finish was great practice!
And just in general, when you are learning the ins and outs of home handyman projects, there is nothing like making a connection at a good local hardware store, where they have advice and solutions for EVERYTHING. And never forget the power of YouTube.
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Does it make a difference if that insulation foam is in the wall? It doesn't right?
I was thinking of self drilling drywall anchors. I've had some success with them, but I also desire to try out one of these things
http://www.discount-distributor.com/toggler-bd-1-2-13-toggle-bolts-3-8-2-1-2-grip-range-zinc-plated-no-bolts-25-pack.html (http://www.discount-distributor.com/toggler-bd-1-2-13-toggle-bolts-3-8-2-1-2-grip-range-zinc-plated-no-bolts-25-pack.html)
Wow. Drill toggles look interesting
I'm feeling slightly better now, because the curtain rod that fell out was held up with just the smallest of drywall anchors. Those things are useless relics of my badly uninformed days
Ok. Over the course of the day I have refamiliarized myself with toggle/molly bolts. And I have figured out the width of my walls.
Found one stud. Can't find another.
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Foam insulation shouldn't interfere.
I've used the self-drilling anchors with some success on light-duty projects, but I don't think I'd trust them for curtain rods...too much downward force to lever them out of the wall.
Haven't worked with the ones in the link, but they look like they transfer the force to a wider base on the back of the drywall, and thus will resist being pulled out, which I think is the key.
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The deck is 6 years old and starting to show some ...idk...mold. Green. I figure this summer I gotta sand it and then stain it.
Anyone ever done anything like this?
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The deck is 6 years old and starting to show some ...idk...mold. Green. I figure this summer I gotta sand it and then stain it.
Anyone ever done anything like this?
Could be mold. Could be mildew or algae. I wouldn't sand it. Very tedious, can't get in to the crevices and you run the risk of inhaling some nasty stuff.
Use a pressure washer with a good detergent, then water seal the deck.
You can rent one for the day for well under $100 or, if you think you have use for it, can pick up a decent one at a place like Harbor Freight for around $300.
Don't bother with the small electric ones you see at Wally World and the home improvement stores. They are ok for small cleanups, but not really heavy duty enoigh for this job.
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Thought I had the gosh darn curtain rods in there perfect. Then they just fall right out of the wall (after like a year). I now have to repair a small hole and find the [dang] stud that seems impossible to find.
Ok. So holes are reasonably well speckled. Now I need to sand it. Spackle again. Sand again. Paint.
THEEEEeeeennnn put up curtain rods. I'm not happy I can't find the stud.
First I hope you know that finding the stud is as easy as finding ANY stud. You may know that they are placed exactly 16" apart, so once you find one, you can deduce the location of the others with a measuring tape.
To find one, look for something else that is connected to a stud, Shelf, hook etc. Also, light switch and outlet boxes are typically attached to the side of a stud. Measure over 3/4" to find the stud center.
You can also tap lightly and listen. When the wall doesn't sound hollow, you found it. Or use a gadget. Search "stud finder" on Amazon.
But that's really not the issue. The studs may not align with where you need your screws and you may have to mount the rods in drywall. Don't use those plastic screw anchors. They will only support the lightest loads over time. Instead, you need a hollow wall fastener.
Here's a link to a common easy solution:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNFv65-QTPI
There are other types of fasteners that will do the job. Type "Hollow & Drywall Anchors" into the Home Depot search box to see some.
Since you were happy with the installation of the rod before it fell, you may want to re-use the holes you just repaired...using better hardware, of course. And doing the spackle and re-finish was great practice!
And just in general, when you are learning the ins and outs of home handyman projects, there is nothing like making a connection at a good local hardware store, where they have advice and solutions for EVERYTHING. And never forget the power of YouTube.
That's in an ideal world, isn't it?
I had to install a small wall-mounted TV recently and my stud finder was pretty much all over the place -- so I ended up saying screw it, and mounted in the drywall with plastic anchors. After all, the whole TV was less than 10 pounds so I figured out 4-6 screws should just been enough.
Too early to tell how it's going to go though. But I can emphatically say the stud finder has been rather useless lately (especially when it comes to the high-voltage detection function, if I listened to that I'd have had to conclude that my wall is just one gigantic power cable...).
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I sawed through the cord of my hand saw the other day. I am pretty much the worst. On the bright side I didn't kill myself or lose any fingers.
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I think I have a skunk(s) living under my deck. Any advice on getting them out?
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I think I have a skunk(s) living under my deck. Any advice on getting them out?
Supposedly (I say supposedly because it never worked for me), using a live trap and throwing a blanket over it to block the skunk from seeing you can keep you from getting sprayed. Good luck with that, though. I'd put money on you getting sprayed if you tried that method. lol
I used to trap and did some animal damage control work for my small town, friends, and family. On more than one occasion I've had to remove skunks from underneath porches, barns, etc. I found that trapping them with a connibear trap (rather than a live trap or foothold) worked best to minimize the odor, though they still sprayed some. When you catch them live, you're almost assuredly going to get them spraying when you approach to dispatch them.
Your best bet is to contact an animal damage control (ADC) guy in your area, especially if you want to minimize the skunk smell. They're usually pretty cheap, because most of them are just outdoorsmen, hunters, and trappers that work other jobs and do that on the side.
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The deck is 6 years old and starting to show some ...idk...mold. Green. I figure this summer I gotta sand it and then stain it.
Anyone ever done anything like this?
Could be mold. Could be mildew or algae. I wouldn't sand it. Very tedious, can't get in to the crevices and you run the risk of inhaling some nasty stuff.
Use a pressure washer with a good detergent, then water seal the deck.
You can rent one for the day for well under $100 or, if you think you have use for it, can pick up a decent one at a place like Harbor Freight for around $300.
Don't bother with the small electric ones you see at Wally World and the home improvement stores. They are ok for small cleanups, but not really heavy duty enoigh for this job.
Pressure washer.....I hadn't thought of that. Good point
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Also....I stayed at a hotel yesterday with a fancy double shower head. I've tried to research this a little. Is replacing a shower head easy or way harder than it sounds? It looks like there's a couple surprises is store for me if I don't think this through
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Also....I stayed at a hotel yesterday with a fancy double shower head. I've tried to research this a little. Is replacing a shower head easy or way harder than it sounds? It looks like there's a couple surprises is store for me if I don't think this through
Is usually very easy, the old head should just unscrew off the pipe and the new one will screw right on. You might need to put some teflon tape on the threads to prevent any leaks
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Also....I stayed at a hotel yesterday with a fancy double shower head. I've tried to research this a little. Is replacing a shower head easy or way harder than it sounds? It looks like there's a couple surprises is store for me if I don't think this through
Is usually very easy, the old head should just unscrew off the pipe and the new one will screw right on. You might need to put some teflon tape on the threads to prevent any leaks
That really was incredibly easy
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Are any of you incredibly untalented and yet still managed to correctly construct an archway in a hall? Like with one of those kits?
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during the game, really? lol
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during the game, really? lol
I can do both!
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Celtics playing well. Let's keep t going.
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A newly planted tree still has withering brown leafs... the tree base looks wrinkled/skin peeling... yet small branches are growing out all over the place
comparable neighbor trees leafs have already bloomed....tree base looks smooth.... color looks brown unlike this tree which looks greyish brown in several areas
is this tree dying? any advice?
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A newly planted tree still has withering brown leafs... the tree base looks wrinkled/skin peeling... yet small branches are growing out all over the place
comparable neighbor trees leafs have already bloomed....tree base looks smooth.... color looks brown unlike this tree which looks greyish brown in several areas
is this tree dying? any advice?
It's probably adapting to being newly planted, get it some natural plant food and food designed to get its roots growing outwards. Don't overwater it as that can cause the roots to stop growing outward.
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A newly planted tree still has withering brown leafs... the tree base looks wrinkled/skin peeling... yet small branches are growing out all over the place
comparable neighbor trees leafs have already bloomed....tree base looks smooth.... color looks brown unlike this tree which looks greyish brown in several areas
is this tree dying? any advice?
It's probably adapting to being newly planted, get it some natural plant food and food designed to get its roots growing outwards. Don't overwater it as that can cause the roots to stop growing outward.
Same advice. It takes a year to really start growing. Talk. With gardening shop for the best vitamins for it.
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Any of you ever put up a convex mirror type thing for a hidden driveway? I'm not thrilled with what I see as the choices. It seems either I put it up high where it's a pain to clean or I put it down low where some subhuman can break it or possibly steal it. Seems I have to drill it in as opposed to just vellcroing
Maybe this isn't worth it
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Any of you ever put up a convex mirror type thing for a hidden driveway? I'm not thrilled with what I see as the choices. It seems either I put it up high where it's a pain to clean or I put it down low where some subhuman can break it or possibly steal it. Seems I have to drill it in as opposed to just vellcroing
Maybe this isn't worth it
What are you attaching it to?
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Any of you ever put up a convex mirror type thing for a hidden driveway? I'm not thrilled with what I see as the choices. It seems either I put it up high where it's a pain to clean or I put it down low where some subhuman can break it or possibly steal it. Seems I have to drill it in as opposed to just vellcroing
Maybe this isn't worth it
What are you attaching it to?
I figured a tree
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Any of you ever put up a convex mirror type thing for a hidden driveway? I'm not thrilled with what I see as the choices. It seems either I put it up high where it's a pain to clean or I put it down low where some subhuman can break it or possibly steal it. Seems I have to drill it in as opposed to just vellcroing
Maybe this isn't worth it
What are you attaching it to?
I figured a tree
Whether you put it high or low, if someone is intent on breaking it they will. If it's out of reach, they'll just throw stuff at it. So just put it where you want it. You also can't stop a determined thief, but if stealing it requires the use of tools as opposed to picking it up and walking away, the odds are in your favor. I occasionally hear about idiot kids vandalizing mailbboxes for fun, but can't recall hearing about one being stolen.
Drilling is not a big deal. Most of these things mount with a Z bracket, which needs a couple of screws. Drill two small pilot holes, or if you don"t have a drill make holes by pounding a nail part way in and pulling it out. Use the biggest diameter hex-head lag bolts that will fit through the holes in the bracket. Use a ratcheting socket wrench and you are done in a few minutes.
If you don't want to drill into the tree you could try using pipe hanger strap from home depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-3-4-in-x-10-ft-Galvanized-Steel-Hanger-Strap-339232/100167964
Wrap it around the tree with the end of the mounting bracket between it and the tree. When it is as tight as possible use a bolt and nut to hold it together. Take up any slack with shims. Use scrap wood, or something like this.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/8-in-Composite-Shim-Bundle-of-12-SHM1-12-TW/202807695
If you want to avoid drilling and minimize the use of tools, try a lashing strap
https://www.amazon.com/Keeper-85243-Lashing-Strap-Pack/dp/B004PL4H0O
After it is up, drive a couple of nails into the tree through the webbing to discourage theft.
When you but your mirror, look for something made of unbreakable material like acrylic rather than glass. And before you mount it have a helper hold it in place to make sure you get the view you want from your driver's seat.
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Are any of you incredibly untalented and yet still managed to correctly construct an archway in a hall? Like with one of those kits?
I forgot about this thread until somebody posted here yesterday and it came up on "latest forum topics". I will be posting here more often during the off-season. ;)
Anyway, I would not advise trying to construct an archway in a doorway or entrance by yourself, unless you are very experienced. A couple of years ago, we hired a handyman to change all our room entrances on the main floor to arched entrances. These were various sizes from door width to a very wide opening between the dining room and living room. I watched his progress daily and saw how complex it is. The wood frame was tricky, and then he had to put up drywall that was slightly bent into a curved shape. There was TONS of wallboard compounding and finish work before painting. It didn't come out quite right on the wide opening and he had to redo it.
I recommend you hire someone.
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Soooooooo......the vent piece on my GE Profile microwave broke off and fell onto my range tonight. Definitely wasn't expecting that.
If I get the piece I don't think the repair is too hard, however I am mildly nervous about the little plastic tab pieces that broke off fell into the machine. I assume it's not a problem. I mean....one would assume it's microwave safe plastic, right?
Anyone have any parts of microwaves fall off on them? There are multiple threads and videos about this on the net so I know I'm not the first
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Also I bought a cheap fire pit (if you can even call it that) like 3-4 years ago and the bottom essentially rusted through (and I am telling you I took ok care of it) and now I'm not sure how best to dispose of it/replace it. It's fine for the moment. I'm not sure if I can or should get replacement stuff.
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Spring has not quite sprung in New England, but many of us are actively thinking about spring yard projects and plan to dive in once the ground softens up.
We have done a large amount of landscaping work the past few years, while keeping some of our beloved mature trees. In the backyard, we tore out some wild scrub, re-seeded the yard, and installed some trees to screen one side from close-by neighbors: cedars, spruces and some smaller birch. This year we will focus on the front yard and plan to install a butterfly bush, some herbs and some annuals for color.
What your spring yard project?
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I have to bury a chicken this morning.
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I have to bury a chicken this morning.
(https://scontent.fbed1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/28377860_10215716185559972_592531862564094775_n.jpg?oh=83e1dfa8558f6743755d38697da8b3fa&oe=5B3F53F8)
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I have to bury a chicken this morning.
(https://scontent.fbed1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/28377860_10215716185559972_592531862564094775_n.jpg?oh=83e1dfa8558f6743755d38697da8b3fa&oe=5B3F53F8)
RIP Chick. You were loved.
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I have to bury a chicken this morning.
(https://scontent.fbed1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/28377860_10215716185559972_592531862564094775_n.jpg?oh=83e1dfa8558f6743755d38697da8b3fa&oe=5B3F53F8)
RIP Chick. You were loved.
We've probably had 20 something chickens over the years. This is the first we've given a space of honor in the woods behind our yard. "Lucky" was the sole survivor of a gory attack on our coop a few years back. She managed to re-integrate with a couple more groups of chickens. Her secret was always taking the highest roost position at night. Never the top of the pecking order, but she had a keen sense for survival.
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Our metrowest town is classified as an "agricultural community" which means there is a low bar to having animals or starting a farm. We could have chickens and goats pretty easily and might do something like that someday when I have the time (retirement).
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Our metrowest town is classified as an "agricultural community" which means there is a low bar to having animals or starting a farm. We could have chickens and goats pretty easily and might do something like that someday when I have the time (retirement).
Chickens are very low maintenance, and the eggs are awesome. Plus they chomp down all of your leftover food and turn it into more food or fertilizer, which is pretty cool.
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NBA season is over, and the off-season speculation is a bit tiresome, so I'm reigniting this thread.
Anybody else working on their yard/garden this spring/summer? I've spent the last two weekends planting perennials and spreading mulch on the beds. The hard part is pulling the weeds BEFORE spreading mulch. In some areas, I've also dug out the old mulch that has turned into ugly dirt.
This is all backbreaking work, but at least I'm getting exercise and fresh air. I do pay for a lawn maintenance company to do the feeding and other treatments, but I mow it myself. We generally avoid lots of chemicals in the yard, but unfortunately we recently had to get a treatment done for gypsy moths. I would go out in the yard and literally hear them chewing. It sounded like a light rain. Very disturbing. They were threatening to chew up all our deciduous trees and we have many that are 50+ year old giants.
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finally got rid of 90% of the dollar weed overtaking my yard.
all these nights of east coast rain storms is growing a beautiful yard once again.
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finally got rid of 90% of the dollar weed overtaking my yard.
all these nights of east coast rain storms is growing a beautiful yard once again.
Yesterday's rain, combined with predicted hot-and-sunny weather for Sunday is gonna make the yard 'pop'. Our new plantings are grateful. Definitely some mowing on the agenda today.
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Help! My lawn is being overtaken by what I think is Ground Ivy. It's possibly Mallow, but I think Ground Ivy. Standard weed/feed fertilizer doesn't impact it; and no luck with targeted weed sprays or crabgrass spray. It's become so pervasive that pulling is painstaking -- also, hard to know if I am getting the roots.
Any suggestions on how to eliminate?
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Help! My lawn is being overtaken by what I think is Ground Ivy. It's possibly Mallow, but I think Ground Ivy. Standard weed/feed fertilizer doesn't impact it; and no luck with targeted weed sprays or crabgrass spray. It's become so pervasive that pulling is painstaking -- also, hard to know if I am getting the roots.
Any suggestions on how to eliminate?
Skip the weed/feed or chem solution.
Best approach is to go to a good seed store and ask them for a park/conservation seed mix with red clover. If they don’t have it the should be able to mix it for you. In the spring pull as much of the ivy as you can, seed and cover with pen mulch or chopped straw. Water regularly and wait. requires a bit of elbow grease but results in a healthier lower maintenance yard.
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Help! My lawn is being overtaken by what I think is Ground Ivy. It's possibly Mallow, but I think Ground Ivy. Standard weed/feed fertilizer doesn't impact it; and no luck with targeted weed sprays or crabgrass spray. It's become so pervasive that pulling is painstaking -- also, hard to know if I am getting the roots.
Any suggestions on how to eliminate?
Skip the weed/feed or chem solution.
Best approach is to go to a good seed store and ask them for a park/conservation seed mix with red clover. If they don’t have it the should be able to mix it for you. In the spring pull as much of the ivy as you can, seed and cover with pen mulch or chopped straw. Water regularly and wait. requires a bit of elbow grease but results in a healthier lower maintenance yard.
Do you use pen mulch in place of starter fertilizer?
Pulling the ivy will be a chore and a half. Endless. Also hard to be sure I've pulled the roots as the ivy breaks easily (maybe that won't matter?).
Is it not worth it to pull and seed in the fall?
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Help! My lawn is being overtaken by what I think is Ground Ivy. It's possibly Mallow, but I think Ground Ivy. Standard weed/feed fertilizer doesn't impact it; and no luck with targeted weed sprays or crabgrass spray. It's become so pervasive that pulling is painstaking -- also, hard to know if I am getting the roots.
Any suggestions on how to eliminate?
Skip the weed/feed or chem solution.
Best approach is to go to a good seed store and ask them for a park/conservation seed mix with red clover. If they don’t have it the should be able to mix it for you. In the spring pull as much of the ivy as you can, seed and cover with pen mulch or chopped straw. Water regularly and wait. requires a bit of elbow grease but results in a healthier lower maintenance yard.
Do you use pen mulch in place of starter fertilizer?
Pulling the ivy will be a chore and a half. Endless. Also hard to be sure I've pulled the roots as the ivy breaks easily (maybe that won't matter?).
Is it not worth it to pull and seed in the fall?
Pen Mulch is a moisture retaining mulch made from paper that keeps germinating seeds moist and shady.
I rarely fertilize, a diverse mix of grasses and nitrogen fixing clover helps creates healthy soils. If the lawn shows stress i’ll augment with a bit of lime in fall or the following spring.
Pulling the ivy in the fall can’t hurt and winter may kill some of the exposed roots, but don’t seed till spring unless you a do it a month before frost, even then i’d want to mix in an annual winter rye to help protect the seeds through the winter.
I wouldn’t worry about the roots too much, not much you can do short of napalm.
The method I recommend uses the clovers tendencies to outcompete the invader.
Clover will come in fast and thick. Roots spread fast and crowd out the ivy. Over the summer ivy will come up through the clover. Pull it as you see it, the clover will fill the gap. Once clover is established mow short. Clover leaves are lower thank the ivy. By mowing short you force the plant to spend energy reserves stored in the roots to send up new leaves instead of expanding its root system. This “carbon starving” stops expansion quickly, weakens it’s ability to recover, and, over a year or two, can kill off the plant.
Over the same few years the grass seed in your mix takes hold in and around the clover roots. together they form a healthy root system that will keep the ivy at bay.
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Help! My lawn is being overtaken by what I think is Ground Ivy. It's possibly Mallow, but I think Ground Ivy. Standard weed/feed fertilizer doesn't impact it; and no luck with targeted weed sprays or crabgrass spray. It's become so pervasive that pulling is painstaking -- also, hard to know if I am getting the roots.
Any suggestions on how to eliminate?
Skip the weed/feed or chem solution.
Best approach is to go to a good seed store and ask them for a park/conservation seed mix with red clover. If they don’t have it the should be able to mix it for you. In the spring pull as much of the ivy as you can, seed and cover with pen mulch or chopped straw. Water regularly and wait. requires a bit of elbow grease but results in a healthier lower maintenance yard.
Do you use pen mulch in place of starter fertilizer?
Pulling the ivy will be a chore and a half. Endless. Also hard to be sure I've pulled the roots as the ivy breaks easily (maybe that won't matter?).
Is it not worth it to pull and seed in the fall?
Pen Mulch is a moisture retaining mulch made from paper that keeps germinating seeds moist and shady.
I rarely fertilize, a diverse mix of grasses and nitrogen fixing clover helps creates healthy soils. If the lawn shows stress i’ll augment with a bit of lime in fall or the following spring.
Pulling the ivy in the fall can’t hurt and winter may kill some of the exposed roots, but don’t seed till spring unless you a do it a month before frost, even then i’d want to mix in an annual winter rye to help protect the seeds through the winter.
I wouldn’t worry about the roots too much, not much you can do short of napalm.
The method I recommend uses the clovers tendencies to outcompete the invader.
Clover will come in fast and thick. Roots spread fast and crowd out the ivy. Over the summer ivy will come up through the clover. Pull it as you see it, the clover will fill the gap. Once clover is established mow short. Clover leaves are lower thank the ivy. By mowing short you force the plant to spend energy reserves stored in the roots to send up new leaves instead of expanding its root system. This “carbon starving” stops expansion quickly, weakens it’s ability to recover, and, over a year or two, can kill off the plant.
Over the same few years the grass seed in your mix takes hold in and around the clover roots. together they form a healthy root system that will keep the ivy at bay.
Well... wow... and TP. Thanks!
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Help! My lawn is being overtaken by what I think is Ground Ivy. It's possibly Mallow, but I think Ground Ivy. Standard weed/feed fertilizer doesn't impact it; and no luck with targeted weed sprays or crabgrass spray. It's become so pervasive that pulling is painstaking -- also, hard to know if I am getting the roots.
Any suggestions on how to eliminate?
Skip the weed/feed or chem solution.
Best approach is to go to a good seed store and ask them for a park/conservation seed mix with red clover. If they don’t have it the should be able to mix it for you. In the spring pull as much of the ivy as you can, seed and cover with pen mulch or chopped straw. Water regularly and wait. requires a bit of elbow grease but results in a healthier lower maintenance yard.
Do you use pen mulch in place of starter fertilizer?
Pulling the ivy will be a chore and a half. Endless. Also hard to be sure I've pulled the roots as the ivy breaks easily (maybe that won't matter?).
Is it not worth it to pull and seed in the fall?
Pen Mulch is a moisture retaining mulch made from paper that keeps germinating seeds moist and shady.
I rarely fertilize, a diverse mix of grasses and nitrogen fixing clover helps creates healthy soils. If the lawn shows stress i’ll augment with a bit of lime in fall or the following spring.
Pulling the ivy in the fall can’t hurt and winter may kill some of the exposed roots, but don’t seed till spring unless you a do it a month before frost, even then i’d want to mix in an annual winter rye to help protect the seeds through the winter.
I wouldn’t worry about the roots too much, not much you can do short of napalm.
The method I recommend uses the clovers tendencies to outcompete the invader.
Clover will come in fast and thick. Roots spread fast and crowd out the ivy. Over the summer ivy will come up through the clover. Pull it as you see it, the clover will fill the gap. Once clover is established mow short. Clover leaves are lower thank the ivy. By mowing short you force the plant to spend energy reserves stored in the roots to send up new leaves instead of expanding its root system. This “carbon starving” stops expansion quickly, weakens it’s ability to recover, and, over a year or two, can kill off the plant.
Over the same few years the grass seed in your mix takes hold in and around the clover roots. together they form a healthy root system that will keep the ivy at bay.
Well... wow... and TP. Thanks!
Or get some little lambs.
They eat ivy ;)
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Hoping someone has a suggestion:
My house has a deck in the back that looks out to a decent sized yard bordered by a stone wall in the rear. Beyond the stone wall is my neighbors pool. For the 15 years I've been here (their pool has been there throughout), there's been a strange small tree on my side of the stone wall with a height and spread that has effectively blocked the view of the neighbor's pool (and of course their view of us). It's been a good thing to have even though the tree is fairly ugly -- but I just noticed it's been uprooted and I'll have to take it down.
Here's what I'm looking for: A tree/shrub that I can plant in the bed up to the stone wall that will grow maybe 6 to 10 feet tall (and grow quickly or can be purchased mature) that will ultimately have maybe a 10 foot spread with blooms/leaves that would provide some privacy in the spring and summer. It would be best, too, if the plant can stand alone (rather than a row of hedges) and look OK -- as I like the look of the stone wall and don't want to block too much of it.
Any ideas?